South Issan

Well, apart from four nights seriously on the piss, the latest little jaunt me 'n the missus went on, in the company of a terrific and very diverse crew of real die hard bikers was a wonderfully cultural and extremely eye opening tour of the treasures of Thailand's southern Issan region.

Now before all you Old Thai Hands start wittering on about Issan this and Issan that, I merely use "southern" to describe the Khorat, Buri Ram, Surin, Si Sa Ket and Ubon Ratchathani region, as distinctly opposed to the "northern" region of Loei, Udon Thani, Nong Khai, Sakon Nakhon and Nakhon Phanom. Everything else is "central" Issan by my book, and if you don't agree, well, the next time you are in a bar staffed entirely by Udon lassies, ask 'em where they think a Surin girl is from, and the odds are you'll hear "khon Khmer" a lot more than "khon Thai!!" And the opposite is just as true, with the Surin and Si Sa Ket darlin's turning their noses up at a "khon Lao".... from Udon Thani!! Ah, I remember the lovely "Wee" from Si Sa Ket: slim, seventeen, single... then buggered off and married a Frog whilst me back was turned! Anyway, I digress... back to the task in hand! (Plus she's about 10 years older now and FAR too mature for me!!)

Anyone out there thinking of a trip to Buri Ram, forget the usual route and try this one: take the 331 and 304, then about half a dozen klicks past the turn for Phanom Sarakham turn east on to the 359... this road is new, fast and the whole route looks just like motoring in Scotland... grassy and barren! (Mind you a friend touring with us said it was just like motoring in Sweden... grassy and barren!) From the 359 take the 33 to Aranyaprathet, then head north on the 348... 100km or so of terrific riding and great views all the way to the 24. From here head east till you see the signs for Phanom Rung and go visit... beautiful old Khmer temple ruins twinned with those of Ankor Wat in Cambodia and home to dozens of Naga (the mythical river serpent known to Thai's as "Phaiyana") statues, which just so happens to be the name and symbol of the motorcycle club I ride with, so lots of piccies taken! From there you're only a quick 50km or so blat up the 219 into Buri Ram, so you've no excuse to miss this one!

The other "must see" sight whilst in the region is the view from on top of the cliff Pha Mor-Edaeng, at Khao Phra Wihan. This was certainly the highlight of the trip for me, and rates as one of my most favourite "sights of Thailand" even though the sight is actually of Cambodia and Laos, from Thailand! What you do is take the 221 south-east from Si Sa Ket for 100km, (or as far as you can go, coz its the same thing) then park up at the border guard outpost and small market, wander up the steps on the hillside on the left... and you will come face to face with the most incredible panorama of Cambodia, Laos, the mountainous border seperating the two countries, endless forest stretching into infinity and the horizon, so damn far away you can actually see the curvature of the earth! Honestly folks, you stand at a guardrail that is mere feet away from a 3-400 foot vertical drop to the forest floor below, and the whole breathtaking view just goes on, and on, and on! An absolute must for anyone touring in that part of the country, and I can only hope my photographs do the view justice for those who read but not ride!

Places to stay? Well, this time the recommendations go to the Pa Ngam Mountain Lodge in Prachinburi province. This is a great resort right on top of the mountain at Ban Pa Ngam on the 304, just a few kms before the town of Wang Nam Khiao, and an ideal place for an activity weekend, with rock climbing, abseiling, rope challenge, flying fox, water challenge, mountain biking, hiking and white water rafting. The place has been featured in the Bangkok Post and on TV so many times with the Thai high-society set you'll probably find yourself being cast as an extra in the next scintillating soap to hit our screens! Check the place out on www.pangam.com 

I also thoroughly enjoyed the Wang Prapha Resort in Aranyaprathet... great solid wooden (railway sleeper!) chalets around a pond under a huge canopy of shade trees, very easy to find, very reasonably priced, very attentive staff (willing to stay on till the wee hours supplying ice cold beer LONG after mere mortals had called it a day!), a great chef and only 5km from the huge border market of Rong Klua, which I will visit again with more money, time and packing space!

So, all in all a great long weekend away at the Si Sa Ket Bike Show..... what, I didn't mention the reason we went away? Well, you want to know, you gotta getta bike and join in! See y'all around town, and as usual the views expressed are mine alone and not the club I ride with, so if you don't like it, don't read it!